They've customized it with CSS (narrower, fainter). It's still there but on a large monitor it's probably barely visible.

Another interesting tidbit about the page is that it downloads 32 CSS files and 141 (!) JS files.

I understand that they'll be cached, but it seems like a fuck you to one time visitors. Is this just a substack thing?

I have scrollbar in FF on W11

It's visible on Chrome and Linux (Fedora).

Using the trackpad for scrolling also works. I assume scroll wheel and page up/down will work fine on any platform.